Robert.Nicolson at Sub... Guest
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Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2004 4:40 pmPost subject: The physics of Tsunami's |
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I thought some of you might be interested to read this :-
The Physics of Tsunamis Published on December 27, 2004
The Island-Asia News Network
A tsunami (pronounced tsoo-nah-mee )is a wave train, or series of waves, generated in a
body of water by an impulsive disturbance that vertically displaces the water column.
Earthquakes, landslides, volcanic eruptions, explosions, and even the impact of cosmic
bodies, such as meteorites, can generate tsunamis. Tsunamis can savagely attack
coastlines, causing devastating property damage and loss of life.
What does "tsunami" mean?
Tsunami is a Japanese word with the English translation, "harbor wave." Represented by
two characters, the top character, "tsu," means harbor, while the bottom
character, "nami," means "wave."
In the past, tsunamis were sometimes referred to as "tidal waves" by the general
public, and as "seismic sea waves" by the scientific community.
The term "tidal wave" is a misnomer; although a tsunami's impact upon a coastline is
dependent upon the tidal level at the time a tsunami strikes, tsunamis are unrelated to
the tides.
Tides result from the imbalanced, extraterrestrial, gravitational 的影响
moon, sun, and planets. The term "seismic sea wave" is also misleading. "Seismic"
implies an earthquake-related generation mechanism, but a tsunami can also be caused by
nonseismic事件,如滑坡或meteorite impact.
How do tsunamis differ from other water waves?
Tsunamis are unlike wind-generated waves, which many of us may have observed on a local
lake or at a coastal beach, in that they are characterized as shallow-water waves, with
long periods and wave lengths. The wind-generated swell one sees at a California beach,
for example, spawned by a storm out in the Pacific and rhythmically rolling in, one
wave after another, might have a period of about 10 seconds and a wave length of 150 m.
A tsunami, on the other hand, can have a wavelength in excess of 100 km and period on
the order of one hour.
As a result of their long wave lengths, tsunamis behave as shallow-water waves. A wave
becomes a shallow-water wave when the ratio between the water depth and its wave length
gets very small. Shallow-water waves move at a speed that is equal to the square root
of the product of the acceleration of gravity (9.8 m/s/s) and the water depth - let's
see what this implies: In the Pacific Ocean, where the typical water depth is about
4000 m, a tsunami travels at about 200 m/s, or over 700 km/hr.
Because the rate at which a wave loses its energy is inversely related to its wave
length, tsunamis not only propagate at high speeds, they can also travel great,
transoceanic distances with limited energy losses
How do earthquakes generate tsunamis?
Tsunamis can be generated when the sea floor abruptly deforms and vertically displaces
上覆水。构造地震是一个particular kind of earthquake that are
associated with the earth's crustal deformation; when these earthquakes occur beneath
the sea, the water above the deformed area is displaced from its equilibrium position.
Waves are formed as the displaced water mass, which acts under the influence of
gravity, attempts to regain its equilibrium.
当大面积的海洋飞路r elevate or subside, a tsunami can be created.
Large vertical movements of the earth's crust can occur at plate boundaries. Plates
interact along these boundaries called faults. Around the margins of the Pacific Ocean,
for example, denser oceanic plates slip under continental plates in a process known as
subduction. Subduction earthquakes are particularly effective in generating tsunamis.
How do landslides, volcanic eruptions, and cosmic collisions generate tsunamis?
A tsunami can be generated by any disturbance that displaces a large water mass from
its equilibrium position. In the case of earthquake-generated tsunamis, the water
column is disturbed by the uplift or subsidence of the sea floor.
Submarine landslides, which often accompany large earthquakes, as well as collapses of
volcanic edifices, can also disturb the overlying water column as sediment and rock
slump downslope and are redistributed across the sea floor. Similarly, a violent
submarine volcanic eruption can create an impulsive force that uplifts the water column
and generates a tsunami.
Conversely, supermarine landslides and cosmic-body impacts disturb the water from
above, as momentum from falling debris is transferred to the water into which the
debris falls. Generally speaking, tsunamis generated from these mechanisms, unlike the
Pacific-wide tsunamis caused by some earthquakes, dissipate quickly and rarely affect
coastlines distant from the source area.
What happens to a tsunami as it approaches land?
As a tsunami leaves the deep water of the open ocean and travels into the shallower
water near the coast, it transforms. If you read the "How do tsunamis differ from other
water waves?" section, you discovered that a tsunami travels at a speed that is related
to the water depth - hence, as the water depth decreases, the tsunami slows.
The tsunami's energy flux, which is dependent on both its wave speed and wave height,
remains nearly constant. Consequently, as the tsunami's speed diminishes as it travels
into shallower water, its height grows.
Because of this shoaling effect, a tsunami, imperceptible at sea, may grow to be
several meters or more in height near the coast. When it finally reaches the coast, a
tsunami may appear as a rapidly rising or falling tide, a series of breaking waves, or
even a bore.
What happens when a tsunami encounters land?
As a tsunami approaches shore, we've learned in the "What happens to a tsunami as it
approaches land?" section that it begins to slow and grow in height.
Just like other water waves, tsunamis begin to lose energy as they rush onshore - part
of the wave energy is reflected offshore, while the shoreward-propagating wave energy
is dissipated through bottom friction and turbulence.
Despite these losses, tsunamis still reach the coast with tremendous amounts of energy.
Tsunamis have great erosional potential, stripping beaches of sand that may have taken
years to accumulate and undermining trees and other coastal vegetation.
Capable of inundating, or flooding, hundreds of meters inland past the typical high-
water level, the fast-moving water associated with the inundating tsunami can crush
homes and other coastal structures. Tsunamis may reach a maximum vertical height
onshore above sea level, often called a runup height, of 10, 20, and even 30 meters.
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